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6:00 a.m. March 24th, 2023. It's dark, cold (31 °F), and snowing: Prefect day for a 50-mile trail race!

 

I had spent the night at a friend's house in Salt Lake City, UT the night before and was ready to start exploring what Antelope Island State Park in Syracruse, UT had to offer. Antelope Island is the largest island in the Great Salt Lake at about 42 square miles. It is well-known for the managed bison herds that roam the grasslands covering most of the island. The entire area is a state park, but our race director had special permission to host an event. The 50-mile race I signed up for traversed most of the island. A 12-mile jaunt down the eastern shore is followed by a back-track and climb up to the northern-most point. Heading over to the west side of the island is succeeded by another climb into the remote backcountry, where several loops traverse some elevation gain before racers head back to the start/finish. 

 

We started at 6:00 a.m. sharp. I was initially a bit nervous when I saw people getting ready to race in winter coats, hats, and gloves. But, I stood my ground and went with what my body was telling me: tights, shorts, a tech shirt, and a tech quarter-zip. I had a buff on my neck and one on by head surrounding my wind-glasses. I broke out to the front of the pack letting the first three runners be my pacers. We were going at about a 7:50 minute per mile pace, which was faster than I wanted, but the trail was mostly flat and the running was easy. I let them pull ahead and ran through the first aid station just after mile 6 without stopping. It was still dark, but so far, so good. Unfortunately, the trail started to deteriorate. I started picking up mud and spent most of the next 10 miles running in the snowy grass. Luckily, there was no active snowstorm, and the sun was almost trying to come out. I stopped at the Ranch aid station around mile 12 to top-off my water and down some potato chips. I had consumed a few gel chews and a Honey Stinger waffle already, but knew I needed to keep the calories coming in. By now, the sun was up, so it was time for the head lamp to come off.  It was about 7:30 a.m. at this point, and I was slightly ahead of pace, so I slowed down a bit and dropped a few positions. Backtracking to the first aid station was slightly monotanous, and I was all alone, but I believed I was in position 9 (out of 83) when I got there. This was now mile 17.5, and I again stopped for a water-top off and chips. 

 

 

About a half mile past this aid station, I realized my first mistake: I went to take a sip out of my bottle and immediately spit it out. Unfortunately, I had refilled by bottle with their electrolyte drink instead of water. There is a rule that I stick to: nothing new on race day. I wasn't about to start drinking something I'd never had before. So, this meant I had to run the next 7 miles with no water. Now, if this was summer, I would have turned around and refilled the bottle with water, but I just decided to press on. My legs were starting to get sore at about mile 20 and my pace severely slowed. I dropped a couple more positions and was in about 12th place when I got to 'the fence' and started heading up to the northern-most aid station. I got my first view of bison, and the sun was even coming out! This reinvigorated my pace and I rolled into aid station number four at mile 25 just above my target time. This Bridger Bay aid station was by far my favorite. I got fresh water, pickles, chips, and even some warm French toast sticks! It was now about 10:00 a.m., and I was feeling pretty good leaving the aid station. The next 4 miles was rocky and technical, but I saw some coyotes, and the views were amazing, so it made it all worth it!

 

 

At mile 27, I had the next aid station in site: White Rock. Unfortunately, I also had what appeared to be a developing snowstorm in sight. About a half mile from the aid station, someone on the trail side offered me some hand warmers, which I quickly accepted (foreshadowing). Near mile 28, I was suddenly slapped by the storm gust front. I'd estimate about 20 mph winds started smacking me from the west (I was running south). When I got to the aid station, it was a disaster. The wind was absolutely whipping now, probably close to 30 mph, and it was starting to snow. Here, I realized my best decision of the day. I had requested my 'drop-bag' with clean clothes and fresh snacks be brought to this spot. I thought just past the halfway point would be an excellent place for some fresh gear. Now, I was just glad to have extra clothes! I put on a long-sleeve tech shirt over my quarter-zip (I was now wearing 3 layers on top) and also put on winter mittens, which I quickly shoved hand warmers inside. I also reupped my snack supply. There was no waiting around at this point. I knew the best way to stay warm was to keep moving, so off I went toward the next aid station. Shortly after leaving, I was in a literal blizzard. There was no cover at all, so all I could do was keep moving. Luckily, the temperature was just above freezing.

 

 

During this section, a smattering of runners from 25K and 50K races were also on the course. I just kept going. Even though I was going uphill, I kept running to stay warm. Following some switchbacks, I came across a girl crouched down on the trail afraid she would get blown off the cliff. Visibility was about 50 feet at this point. I knelt down and she latched on to me, but quickly decided we needed to keep moving to stay warm. I was fine, she was not. We quickly encountered a group of about 6 runners who were turning back, and she elected to go with them (smart decision on her part). I forged ahead and came upon another group of runners inappropriately dressed who were huddled under a rock outcropping. I stopped for a second (not much I could do to help) and then continued. I don't know if it was adrenaline, or my optimal clothing, but I never felt cold. Without the powerful hand warmers, though, the story would have been much different. The snow and wind started to die down, and I met a few more runners turning back who informed me the race had been canceled. I'm now near mile 32, but I'm far out, so I elect to continue running up to the next aid station at Elephant Head. There was a significant climb up to the station, and when I got there, they were packing up.

 

At this stage of the race, there was a small loop and an out and back that were to be run from this aid station. This was about 8 miles, and then it was 9 miles back to the finish. While I was in good spirits at the time, I knew that running that much distance with no aid stations after already running 30+ miles would not be a smart move. They offered me a ride back to the finish, but my legs were good, so I elected to run back and see how many miles I could get for the day. I knew at this point I would not get 50 miles, which was disappointing, so I focused on the scenery to carry me home. The next 5 miles were pretty meh. While the sun was out and the snow was gone, the wind was not. It was a twisty trail, with many sections going into the wind, so this was not the most enjoyable section. I persevered and made it to the final aid station, which was of course completely gone, and was told by a volunteer I could only continue if I felt "really really okay". I was okay, so I continued on and ran/walked the remaining 4 miles to the finish. This section was tough, but I was determined to cross the finish line running. I passed a park ranger who again offered me a ride and took down my bib number to make sure I was accounted for. I finally made it to the end and crossed the finish line in just over 8 hours. I had run 42 miles since starting this morning. This was a pace of 11:26 per mile, which I was quite pleased with considering the weather conditions!

 

 

There was no one there to congratulate me at the finish, so I just walked in the heated tent (bless!) and told them I was done! I was pretty whipped at this point, so I grabbed a half bowl of chili, and then took a quick 15-minute power nap in my car. After this, I felt pretty okay, so I went back to the tent to grab all my stuff, changed my clothes, and then headed out! I drove up to the visitor’s center before I left and grabbed a pin to commemorate this unforgettable race before I drove back to Logan, UT. I’ll tame this course next year, and hopefully my next 50-mile attempt will be foil-free!

 

Moral of the story: Keep your hands warm, keep moving, and never give up! You are capable of much more than you think!